After more than a month of sleeping at other people's houses on one continent or another, finally we are on our own - just the four of us. We have been talking long walks along the river road in the morning, trying to get out and back before it gets too hot and then fitting in some school work in the shade of the boma. Although class keeps getting interrupted by different visitors: zebra, kudu, a very large warthog. The midday heat is too much, so by 3pm we migrate to the swimming pool like the rest of the animals.
When we arrived back in the first week of October, it was clear that a substantial amount of rain had fallen while we were gone and you can see the fainest hint of green along the road side and under the trees. Anywhere else this tiny sprouts would go unnoticed but is so dry here that the smallest addition of colour is detectable.
Our visits to the krans (viewpoint) overlooking Kruger National Park from the Crocodile River have been very successful: Two male lion, a rhino, hippo, many elephant, buffalo and a leopard! A hyena has been calling during the night and early morning, but I can't find him! Late in the morning on October 10 we strolled over to the viewpoint with our coffee and we quietly watched as small family groups of female elephant and their young silently emerged from the dry bush, stopping to eat along the way. We soon realized something special was happening; there were dozens of smaller groups all converging below to eat and drink together. There was more than 80 individuals spread along the river bank! They lingered there all day, grunting and calling, and by sunset they had dispersed, while a few remaining loners picked through the reeds.
Wednesday, 19 October 2011
Saturday, 8 October 2011
African Birthday number 2
On October 2 1999 Nic and I were somewhere on the shores of Lake Malawi slowly making our way back from Zanzibar.
Twelve years later: less hair, more stomach, two kids in the backseat, and on our way to the Sudwala Caves (and dinosaur park). OK the Dino park was optional but the kids are able to identify most of the 'saurs by name AND the massive plants growing in this lush little valley actually look like they belong in the Paleozoic period, giving the dinosaurs an added effect.
The Sudwala caves are big and we ended up walking about 600 meters into them. The Xhosa used to use these caves to hide during times of war, using fresh water from deep within to survive.
I spent a quiet evening flyfishing in the sunset. No bites. Whatever, I couldn't hope for better place to be standing.
Twelve years later: less hair, more stomach, two kids in the backseat, and on our way to the Sudwala Caves (and dinosaur park). OK the Dino park was optional but the kids are able to identify most of the 'saurs by name AND the massive plants growing in this lush little valley actually look like they belong in the Paleozoic period, giving the dinosaurs an added effect.
The Sudwala caves are big and we ended up walking about 600 meters into them. The Xhosa used to use these caves to hide during times of war, using fresh water from deep within to survive.
I spent a quiet evening flyfishing in the sunset. No bites. Whatever, I couldn't hope for better place to be standing.
Fishing in the highveld
We left the warm dry heat of Marloth for the windy rolling hills of the highveld on an old farm the family calls "Muddlers"
where they have stocked a series of reservoirs with trout.
The nearest pond has a small island in it and the kids row over to it for picnics and various pirate-related adventures.

The kids are having a blast playing with their cousins, especially in the mud. Everybody is here, the whole family including the three dogs, so it's busy and noisy and hectic with the kitchen occupied in a constant state of food preparation: breakfast, tea, lunch, tea again, fire building and beer, dinner.
The brisk weather turned wet - and we watched from the porch of the farmhouse as massive thunderstorms built and rolled miles away and slowly dragged their showers over us with incredible lightening strikes on the hills around the farm. The power went out which forced a wonderful dinner-by-candlelight with nine of us crowded around the table for a hearty meal as the rain pelleted our windows.

It's an interesting spot, and South African history is always close by: the top of the nearest hill has stone ruins rumored to be ceremonial sites from Indian gold seekers and close by are the graves of Boer and English soldiers. The nearest town is Waterval Boven, an important rail link in 1900 and probably a target for the Boers. There's not much there now, except some eclectic trading stores and Lou's Liquor for more Windhoek Draught.
We will be heading back to Marloth for some heat and game viewing, as well as a bit of routine and quiet time, having spent the last busy month with extended family, and drinking way more beer and wine than usual.

where they have stocked a series of reservoirs with trout.
The nearest pond has a small island in it and the kids row over to it for picnics and various pirate-related adventures.

The kids are having a blast playing with their cousins, especially in the mud. Everybody is here, the whole family including the three dogs, so it's busy and noisy and hectic with the kitchen occupied in a constant state of food preparation: breakfast, tea, lunch, tea again, fire building and beer, dinner.
The brisk weather turned wet - and we watched from the porch of the farmhouse as massive thunderstorms built and rolled miles away and slowly dragged their showers over us with incredible lightening strikes on the hills around the farm. The power went out which forced a wonderful dinner-by-candlelight with nine of us crowded around the table for a hearty meal as the rain pelleted our windows.

It's an interesting spot, and South African history is always close by: the top of the nearest hill has stone ruins rumored to be ceremonial sites from Indian gold seekers and close by are the graves of Boer and English soldiers. The nearest town is Waterval Boven, an important rail link in 1900 and probably a target for the Boers. There's not much there now, except some eclectic trading stores and Lou's Liquor for more Windhoek Draught.
We will be heading back to Marloth for some heat and game viewing, as well as a bit of routine and quiet time, having spent the last busy month with extended family, and drinking way more beer and wine than usual.

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